I don’t have any friends with dogs so I can’t set up a practise session where he gets reinforced by getting closer to the dog for good behaviour. So I have actually been working on your method of distraction training with distance for about 8 months and have seen zero improvement.I used to use cooked chicken to distract and at first it worked but now it’s lost it’s power and I don’t know anything else he prefers (he’s not a tugger though I am working on it) If he see’s a human he’ll check to see if there is a dog attached or nearby. The minute we walk out the door he’s scanning the horizon to see if there are any dogs. So he may be playing with a dog and the moment he sees another one he’ll rush off to greet that one. I initially thought head halters were cruel although now I suspect if used properly that is not the case however I am concerned that I will not have the skills to use it correctly. If you could consider covering head-halters in a future podcast that would be brilliant. Susan, your advice on distractions is FANTASTIC! AND, from experience now, I know it will work!! And will do agility in our back yard even if dogs, or people are in adjoining yards. he is the perfect gentleman in dog classes ( 1 1/2 years later- rally- agility – as long as we are the only ones in the ring. I carry GREAT, smelly treats, and today he turned his head to get the treat when the mailman walked by -across the street.īren is much better off our block ( walking, etc), I only have to cross the street. If I see the distraction first, we go right back in the house. He sits down on command if we see something/ someone coming, I hold him down with his sturdy harness and he mostly hyperventilates as they go by and then calms down. I only walk one dog at a time, he still looks both ways when we go out, and before he will do his “business”, or not. I only wish I had this advice 1 1/2 yrs ago.īren is much better now, but still not great. We live on a suburban, one very long block /street that is a short-cut for cars, trucks, plus, everyone walks up, or down- well, less walk the street now. Also, then Lokshn copied her- pulling and barking till I was dragged down as well. What a fantastic podcast for me with my 2 yr old, Bren ( wish I knew what happened to him- from a BREEDER), who came to me with PTSD at 10 months!! 1st shaking uncontrollably, then switching to aggression out of fear of EVERYTHING out side our front door ( no secure back yard fencing – they could jump it- 3 ft) – trucks, people, DOGS, children,( first, trying to nip Lokshn and I ( one time, blood pouring from my leg), pushing us back, then lunging and barking like a coyote toward any distraction). But how do I stop him from going into the woods in the first place? I don’t like it. I’ve been working on recall and he will come back when I whistle or call his name and then I give a super great food reward. He’s focused on me when I’m there, but I cannot keep him on a leash in the yard and I can’t be with him whenever he’s outside. He’s a rough collie and won’t “hunt”, but does chase away. But if he hears or smells deer, he’s off in the woods barking crazily and chasing them away. He’s 7 years old so is out there on his own a lot (the house is only 650 sq ft so we’re more than happy for him to be outside!). We live in the country right in the woods. I praise him when he’s quiet and reward him. If I see the cat first, I can tell him “Leave” and he won’t bark, but whines a bit and looks at me a lot. When he sees a cat, he goes crazy, barking and whining. I don’t know how to practice this with a cat. I have done many of these games and Fin does so well when it’s food.
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